War on the Horizon.

Whispers of war between Sudan and South Sudan echo in my ears. My heart aches. My bones shake.

Straining my eyes for a better view, turning my ears to the faintest rumble,  I crouch in closer. Could war really be coming? Lord, no. Please, no.

What are these whispers?
Sudan is building its army.
Disputed towns have been sacked.
Peace negotiations have been suspended.

Please pray for the peace of South Sudan. Pray for this fledgling nation to find its feet. Also pray for Sudan. Pray that peace would rule the hearts of its leaders and that love would lace their actions.

Amen.

Katydid.

Can you spot him? He's hiding very well....

He looked wildly out of place in our observation room. His bright Spring-green wings positively shimmered in the dim light and caught my eye. He was beautiful.

So after checking on my patient, I reached up on the pole used to keep the mosquito nets in place and cupped him in my hands. This made the women in the room titter in nervous laughter; but I’m used to that.

Fighting and flaying he tried to get away but his exoskeleton wasn’t designed for speed. Although he flew a few feet I was able to catch him again with ease.

Beautiful. Intricate.

Walking toward the compound with him in hand, I looked for a better home for my new friend --something with leaves. The vine covered wall of our dining hall seemed perfect and I let him free.

But not before I got a picture.

This guy is easily 2 inches long. When his wings opened for his escape it reminded me of a para-glider diving off a cliff.

Smooth. Steady. Strong.

Not sure what to call him, I looked him up on the internet. The pictures I compared with him say he’s a Katydid.

Any entomologists out there that would disagree?

When I admire his fine markings and his exact coloring for camouflage, I’m impressed. Truly God made everything perfect and good!

The heavens declare His glory... but so do the Katydids!

Crusty Yellow Teeth Bark

In the states, we spend insane amounts of money making sure our teeth sparkle and stand unnaturally straight. In fact, the money we spend in toothpaste alone could finance a small European country. Lexumbourg perhaps.

Dental care looks a little different in the Sudan. I haven’t seen any dental floss for sale yet... but I see toothbrushes everywhere. In fact, they grow on trees!

To be more precise... they are trees.

I haven’t decided yet if they are oversized toothpicks or ingenious flaky bristle pads for your teeth! But they are fun.

I’ve watched some people clean their teeth with sticks 2 1/2 feet long. Somehow it works. I’m not sure how well it works on halitosis but hey... at least the crusty yellow teeth gunk is gone.

The birds of the air... the beast of the field.

Me and My Badger. Any suggestions for a name?

This land is full of exotic animals of every shape and color. I love living with so much variety of life. Some of them are dangerous – like the snakes and scorpions. Whereas others are just fascinating and fun.

Last week our hen hatched a few chicks who chirp and scurry in the cutest of ways. We put them in the kennel with the Dik-dik and together they seem content. The Dik-dik is admittedly a bit harassed.

Well, last week a hawk spied them and came in for a kill. Suzy was able to scare away it the first time but when it tried again later that day, it was caught instead. Sabet was able to trap it against the fence. It was beautifully sharp and wasn’t much happy with its predicament.

Suzy suggested we feed it to the dog because it’d just come back for the chicks. I asked to keep it instead (or at least until the chicks grew up enough not to be threatened) and Sabet agreed. So I put it in a cage in my room and dreamed of building an aviary, etc.

But by the time I got back from work, the chicken coop was reinforced and I was free to release the hawk. It made me happy to send it back to the wild but a little sad too. I was happy to think I might get to have a hawk as a pet.

Not long after (or was it before), little Jeddie (Suzy’s and Sabet’s boy) caught the resident hedgehog.

Yup. You read that right. A hedgehog! Hedgehogs are adorable! Pointy but adorable. I named him Horacio and was fully ready to keep him but he wouldn’t eat anything I gave him. I couldn’t let him starve. He’s just too cute. So we liberated him. We still see him hanging out around the toilets some nights. So I still think of him as a quasi-pet. 

Then today after church the kids were playing with a ‘skunk’. Skunk? I had to see for myself. For a skunk it had some strange markings – too many strips. It also had claws. Claws? That’s not right. Then of course the tail was all wrong as well. I’m no expert but I’m confident it’s not a skunk. It hasn’t sprayed us once.

But it’s small about the size of a kitten. As I considered what it could be I remembered seeing a badger not too many years back while living in Europe. It’s teeth are still nubs and it can’t bite or claw much of anything. It’s a baby something… why not a baby badger.

It hadn’t eaten in a day or two (according to Sabet), so I tried to give it milk by syringe. It fought me at first but then figured out it was food and ate its fill. He fell asleep in my hands immediately after—snuggling into me and making me smile.

This one I’m keeping because he’ll eat and I have no idea how to find it’s mom. Right now he’s asleep on my floor under a cage, snuggled up on a pile of leaves.

Badgers are noctural. I wonder what tonight will sound like. I hope he doesn’t do his screaming thing again. That would be just heartbreaking! He has a call/scream that gives me a chill.

Anyone want to bet I can teach him to walk on a leash?  He he he

What the heck is a Dik-dik?

Imagine a miniature deer with fir much like a wild hare. Make sure you keep it small in your head, sort of like an emaciated cat with ridiculously long legs -all awkward and skittish, skipping around daintily,barely touching the ground. Glue grape sized protruding orbits for eyes and a wee bit of fluff for a tail and there you have it… a dik-dik!

I mentioned to Suzy about how it must taste like rabbit and she cringed. I guess she has a soft bone for family pets. I figure it can be eaten if necessary but is unlikely to satisfy a child.

The resident Dik-dik here on the compound is named Bambi. She looks like something that stepped out of a fairy tale and has an infected eye. It oozes gunk and should come out. Any vets want to come out and do a little surgery? You could save Bambi!

Of Bats and Mangos.

On the north side of the compound tower two large mango trees, lush and regal. They are bigger than any mango trees I’ve ever seen before, easily standing four stories tall. Their branches are loaded-- but not with mangos.

Instead these trees house dozens of bats.

You wouldn’t guess it during the day, but come dusk they start to dip and dive. They dart spastically in a drunken feast on the mosquito and flying termites population. (Thank God!) But sometimes they get a little side-tracked.

The other day, one found its’ way into my room. This didn’t bother me much, as I have a tender spot for flying rats. But my bunkmate, Jessica, had a different view. She is not much for anything crawly or bug shaped. And I have recently assumed the role of ‘Bug-squasher’.

So when Dracula came calling, I had to reassure her somewhat. I refused to chase this ‘slightly larger’ bug away as he was ridding me of pests. So we tried to sit still and wait for him to find the door on his own.

He circled a few times and landed a few times. I think it was a lot harder for Jessica than for me to wait him out. But eventually we ignored him and went on with our reading. I was surprised to look up from my book a few minutes later to find the room ‘bat-less’. They sure are quiet.

I wonder if I’ll have to fight them for a proper mango when mango season starts. I guess I’ll have to wait until next February and see.

First Impressions...

Much of my day is spent trying to remember simple things - like to breathe. Today happens to be one day when breathing comes naturally. It helps that I've had a day off from the clinic.

I've only been in Tonj for 5 days and yet it feels like longer. The things I've seen so far... the smells... the sounds. It feels both familiar and foreign.

Each morning I'm greeted in my new Dinka name... Kuac. I hear, 'Chibek, Kuac' and am saluted. I respond with a hand shake and smile. 'Chibek?' means 'How are you?' I'm told that my new name means 'White cow with black spots all over.' :- ) Yes, I'm named after a cow!

But I'm digressing... Let's back up a bit.

Tuesday, I arrived with the rest of the team on a small plane. It only seats 10 - including the pilot. But such small planes afford extraordinary views. We flew just above the cloud line and from my small window, I marveled at the patchwork below.

As we left Nairobi, it seemed like each inch of land was parceled out in neat little farms and quartered off in fences. But as each hour passed,  and we traded the deep luscious farms for grasslands, a new part of Africa was revealed - An Africa with rolling hills and towering peaks. An Africa with deed mountains that rival the Alps in every way but color. An Africa with rivers so deep they empty out 2000 miles away in the Mediterranean. Yes. the White Nile wiggled below us in all its muddy splendor. But by the time we landed, the ground was spotted in round mud huts set quietly among grassy fields and scraggly trees. The diversity was breath taking.


My first impressions of Tonj are too confusing to draw any conclusions. The town seems brimming with activity... but I've only seen it once. The roads are dirt and dusty. And the landing strip had a wrecked airplane at its end... someone forgot to apply the brakes! I wanted to take pictures but didn't. There were armed guards in military fatigues helping us unload our things... or where they just watching? I can't recall. All I remember is they were right in the middle of everything.

Hugs and great excitement greeted us by the staff and has remained the same. I'm impressed with the team here at the clinic and the Kuj family is lovely. I look forward to knowing them better. We only had a day with some of the team as a handful left the next morning for a little R&R. Our pilot over-nighted with us and flew out early the next morning before the rain descended.

When the rain came... it came with power and force. Many of my patients opted to wait it out for hours. I'm told, when it rains, no one comes to the clinic and now I understand why. Streets become rivers and rivers become lakes. I love it... but only because I had no where I needed to go.

It's winter here now with days of 80 degrees and cool evenings and rain. It is muggy and warm. I worry to think it will get hotter. But such is life for them... why not for me too. :- )

It sure is nice to be home.

My journey began on wednesday with a canceled plane but got better along the way. Two lay-overs turned into three. But for my flexibility, I was bumped to first class part of the way!

I met a number of characters along the way (missionaries, nuns, BP gas company representatives!) and was able to sleep. I'm glad I thought to bring my own pillow. However, I'm strongly convinced that the airline industry has shrunk the seats and foot space to an all time minimum! Honestly, how much can they be saving my causing all these leg cramps and blood clots? Is it worth it?  Sigh. Regardless, it was a simple trip - long but worth every leg cramp and food stain. (yes. food finds me non-stop on these flights. Ha!)  

When I landed, I was surprised with the number of smiles and sweet consideration. Perhaps, I was expecting Haiti and didn't know it. I hadn't realize this was the case... until I noticed how surprised I was. Remarkable? Perhaps not. But the case none-the-less.

The people here are open and inviting. I get smiles everywhere I go (which offends my french veneer but blesses my American core!). I like a people willing to stare (thanks to France) and smile at strangers (American). I like a people inviting and generous of heart (love you Filipinos! I really do!) and happy to talk to anyone. And so... I've decided to like Kenyans too.

Gordon Sunga (hereto will be referred to as Professa Sunga!) picked me up at the airport and has been my constant guide ever since. He is a young man from the Luo tribe who is the logistic man for In deed and truth. I'm glad he is here. He is a good example of the Kenyan kindness. But most importantly, he has exhibited extraordinary patience with me in learning Swahili. :- ) Thus his new name - Professa!

This morning, after sleeping like a log, I woke to the sound of LOUD exotic birds cawing out my window. The sound soothingly reminded me that I was 'not in Kansas anymore'. However, I can't say it feels foreign.

Everywhere I turn, a sheen of familiarity shines through. The smell of the land reminds me of home. The crazy driving takes me back to the Philippines... but different. They drive on the left side of the road here and my brain is trying to shift to this new dimension. I have to say the reverse images flashing in my brain have shifted a number of times... and not in a good way! :- ) But all the same... it feels very familiar.

But most of all, it's the soft humid caress of the air that brings me home - home to the Philippines. The heavy air and sweet tropical flowers transport me. I feel like I've breathed this air once before. And well... with a happy sigh, I find myself thinking, "It sure is nice to be home."

Pilgrims

I leave the grand ol' USA in a few short days - 3 1/2 to be exact.
It's hard to imagine what my upended life will look like a week from now... let alone a year from now. But I'm excited.

This place seems so real... and my destination... well.... it seems imaginary, exotic and strange.
My brain in an effort to understand what it will be like, has started superimposing the images I've seen of Tonj with what I see around me. The overlap just doesn't mesh.
And to be honest, I almost want to run and hide.
But instead I take a deep breath and I pray.
I've been praying for this and preparing for this for years.
Yes, my new home will be quite different but then again, aren't we just pilgrims on this planet after all?

Great Expectations!

Frequently I’m asked questions I’m not sure how to answer; “Aren’t you scared?” “What about the food, what will you eat? Are there big bugs? Will you have to EAT the bugs? Will you get malaria!? Will you die?”

Truthfully, I am scared - not for my life but for the women who are dying there in childbirth. I am nervous about the many diseases and questionable food, but I’m more nervous for the newborns suffering from them and dying.

Believe me, I would rather live a comfortable life, eat fresh crab and sip on lattes. But I want to to obey God more.

He has put in my heart a desire to go. He has given me a love for the hurting, the dying and the lost - especially those lost in sin!

Frankly, I can’t imagine a place I would rather be. I can’t imagine a people I’d rather serve.

So to answer your questions. No. I am not scared to go.

It is my joy.

I expect God to move in great ways - first in my heart but also among His people.

I do expect hardships and trials, lonely days and sadness. But I also expect God to work in great ways! He is a God who does not disappoint! My expectations are great! For He is GREAT and most worthy of praise! Thanks for coming with me!

Love Stephanie

Beauty Secrets of the Dinka!

Among the Dinka people of Southern Sudan, personal grooming and decoration are valued. The Dinka rub their bodies with oil made by boiling butter. They cut decorative designs into their skin. They even remove some teeth for beauty.

This is a far cry from Botox and laser hair removal. I guess we all have a standard to meet. Right?

Sudanese Birth Statistics

- 82 out of 1000 Sudanese babies die within a year of life
- 550 women die in Sudan for every 100,000 live births
- There is only 1 doctor for every 5000 people.

Where am I going and... why!

~Tonj, Sudan~

Thank you all so much for praying for me these last few months. We all prayed for direction and God has answered beautifully!

I’ve been invited to work in the Sudan with a group called In Deed and Truth.

This ministry has been working among the Dinka people of Southern Sudan since 1998, training pastors and serving the needs of the community. In 2006, they started a medical clinic and today, it serves roughly 1000 patients a week. They are in desperate need of a midwife.

Soon after I got the go-ahead for Sudan, I started studying what life will be like there. I’m told it is very remote. There are NO stores and all our supplies need to be brought in by a chartered flight.
I’m also told since living in such an isolated place can be so intense, missionaries must leave every 4 months for a months respite. I’ll spend this time in a guest house in Kenya.

To tell you the truth, I’m not sure what to expect. I anticipate that it will be a hard adjustment in the beginning and that the learning curve will be high.

But I’m happy to join them and ask that you would team up with me as I prepare to head out. I’ve committed to two years and am hoping to fly out in the beginning of May. But much of that depends on getting everything in order.